Oh Jo Jo Jo

In the morning after our late arrival into Deshais in Guadalupe we headed off to go and track down Jo who had landed on the other side of the island the night before. We had to clear customs and arrange a car etc. so we did a good lot of faffing around before we were on our way. Customs turned out to be in a shop that sold t-shirts and hammocks so that threw us off a bit when we were looking for it. Luckily we had many French pastries to keep us going.
After some hairy driving we found Jo relaxing in a nice hotel, we whisked her away and went exploring around the island. We had a look around an old fort which had a strange art gallery inside it and we also went and had a look at one of the waterfalls in the national park (at that time saying how lovely it was – just wait until Dominica!!!).
On one of the outings in the dinghy we were just passing another dinghy when Jo started yelling at them from a good distance. Pretty convinced at this stage that Jo must have gone (more crazy) in the 4 years since we had seen each other, I just kept my head down feeling pretty embarrassed. Turns out they were a couple of guys that Jo had met in an airport on her way over to Guadelupe. Considering she had got about 5 flights to finally meet us this was quite the coincidence. We invited them round for drinks after JO and I did a bit of very excited shopping in a big French supermarket (for the record we should never be allowed in a supermarket hungry again together). Much cheese, wine and general treats later we were unpacking the shopping when the guys made it over. John (later re named ‘enthusiastic John’) Brandon and Amanda were out sailing with Brandon and Amanda’s parents on their catamaran ‘Sea quester’. We had a fantastic boozy night with these guys not sure we would be seeing them again anytime soon.
The next day was painful with hangovers, but we managed to get a few jobs done and plan our departure down the coast. Nick and I were readying the boat when we got a knock on the stern only to come up and realize that our anchor had dragged! We were on our way out to sea! Luckily there were no boats downwind of us and we were both on board. We quickly started the engine and re anchored.
A couple of hours later we headed down the coast to pigeon island (famous for diving and snorkeling). We had a bit of a falling out with a glass bottom boat who wanted us off their mooring bouy, then found another bouy (a bit close to the rocks) had a snorkel (Jo had a dive) and an explore on the island. We then found a nice quiet anchorage for the night.
After our morning swims we headed off down the coast again for Isle des Saints. These are a beautiful cluster of islands off the southern tip of Guadelupe. They are so picturesque and French and full of delicious French food. After catching a nice size big eye tuna we made our way into the bay. A couple of hours later – who should arrive but the guys on Sea Quester! Needless to say we had a few more boozy nights and some great laughs with those guys.
We had a great time in Isle des saints. Great to explore some forts and the beautiful little town. We got the paddleboard out and was great to feel like we were really relaxing for the first time. We did still have a few jobs to do, including changing over the headsail and cleaning up the dirty desil. But imbetween days of exploring and lots of delicious food we got ready to head for Dominica.

Some speedy island hopping


So despite the excitement about getting underway we had realised that we needed to make some serious ground south and east to get to Guadalupe in time to meet Jo. We had decided that we didnt want to sail at night so planned to do a bit of rushed island hopping.
Unfortunatley the wind wasnt really playing ball and had swung around to the south which meant that we were doing a lot of upwind ‘lean-y over sailing’ (some technical sailing terms for my non sailing friends  ).
We had our first night in a rolly anchorage off Saint Eustasias – a strange oil/petrol storge island – nothing very exciting. The next night saw us getting into a nice calm bay on Nevis. I went ashore to find some wifi to contact Jo to explain our upwind struggles and therefore our delay. On my walk around I even stumbled across a troop of monkeys. I left Nick on the boat dealing with a dirty fuel issue that had arisen after beating into the wind and waves.
Another early start saw us heading ideally for Guadalupe, however conditions were against us again and with the fuel issues we decided to stop in and overnight on the island of Montserrat. Of all of the islands that I had previously visited in the Caribbean this one and Dominica had really stood out for being so interesting. Sure there are lots of nice white sandy beach isalnds but these two are adventure central.
Half of Montserrat was covered in a massive volcanic eruption in 1997. The whole of the old capital is still there abandoned and in parts burried in ash and lava mud flows. Now thats a place I would like to explore! However due to the constraints the best we could do was some spearfishing on a really nice reef near the boat.
Nick having previously lost 2 lures fishing off the back of the boat had vowed to ‘find the bastard’ and jumped in with his new (second hand $40) speargun in hand, only to loose his spear when we finally located and fired at the offending Spanish Mackrel. Nick 0 Mackrel 3.
We were sad to leave Monsterat after such a short stay but had promised to return on the ‘Rum Tour’ when we come back to the Caribbean and do it again properly.
After another hard upwind slog we tacked our way up into the north west of Guadelope. We arrived just before sunset and headed into town for a mind blowing ice cream and wifi to try and find Jo who had just landed.

Ooooh Saint Martin

After a hard nights sail we arrived in Saint Martin. It was great to get near some land after feeling a bit sea sick all night. We had decided to stay in Simpson bay which is the hub of massive luxury yachts in the Caribbean and therefore a well supported yacht area with good services (this was espically good considering the long list of jobs we had ended up making over the crossing). To get into Simpson bay we needed to enter through a swing bridge, so we anchored up outside and waited for the bridge to open. Interestingly, although we had had the boat for nearly 2 months we actually hadnt anchored at all yet. So new experiences all round! We sucessfully anchored and waited. A yacht came in really close to us and I felt that we were getting too close to them as we were swinging on the anchor so we decided to up anchor and motored around for about 15min waiting for the bridge. As the que started forming (including a barge, super yachts, catamarans etc) we all shuffled for possition (taking care not to crash into each other). I decided to be polite and give the barge and expensive super yachts some space. Then as I moved into our slot in the que we edged forward and just as we got to the narrow passage before the bridge they closed it on us! I was gutted! After a long night of feeling pretty rubbish I was looking forward to it all being over. So we headed back out to the rolly anchorage to anchor up and try again in a few hours. I thought this would be a great time for a quick nap and headed down below.
I woke up to the others calling out for me and popped my head up to find 4 armed men and one woman in uniform sitting in the cockpit. They explained that they were from customs and needed to search the boat. Nick showed them around while I filled out the paperwork. Luckily so large stashes of drugs/guns were found and we were allowed on our way.
Second chance at the bridge approached so we got oursleves into possition vowing to be a lot less polite this time. We muscled our way in and managed to get through the bridge. Once inside it wasnt quite clear where a good place to go was, so I decided to follow a boat our sort of size and see where they headed. They promptly anchored up and I spotted one of the Volvo Ocean boats (Brunel) and knowing that they have massive keel I thought we would be fine anchoring right behind – then we ran aground. We scurried around trying to get off, sails went up, engine was revved, until 2 guys kindly came out in their dinghys and pushed us off the bank. Tensions were high as we then went to anchor again – the first time dragging and then finally good on the second try.
We ended up spending about a week in Simspson bay, this included many trips to various chandleries and hardware stores. Lots of work to do on the boat so days were long and busy. Nick and I managed to squeeze in an evening surfing with Tom (my French friend from NZ who I stayed with on my way through Saint Martin the first time). Tom and Coline had very kindly stored a whole lot of our gear for all the time we had been in the BVI’s so we were super grateful.
Once we were feeling a bit happier about our readiness on the boat we decided to head a bit closer to Tom and Coline and move around to Oyster Pond. This is a super sheltered anchorage on the east side of the island. On the sail over we found a few more ‘fun problems’ to fix which meant we wouldnt be able to leave Saint Martin quite as soon as we had hoped.
Around this time all four of us (Ann, Dean, Nick and I) made the decision that we shouldnt carry on with the trip together. As it goes with living with any good friends sometimes it works well but sometimes less well, but doesnt mean you cant still be good friends. So Ann and Dean left Nick and I and went to join an Aussie couple who we met in the yard in Virgin Gorda. Great that we left on such good terms with those guys and we left hoping that we might catch up with them again in Bonaire.
Nick and I stayed on in Oyster Pond finishing up jobs and we managed to fit in another great surf with Tom. A full 4 hours in the water at a really nice reef break with nice size waves and a right too- so perfect for me and the 2 goofy footed boys still had fun.
Our last night in Saint Martin was spent in Marigot bay. We headed down that way to go and potentially pick up a new dinghy but decided against it in the end (a last min paniced dinghy ride to immigration and a bit of a telling off there put me off dinghy shopping a bit…). After a big goodbye to Tom (who we will meet again in the Pacific) we went to bed hoping for a 4am start to get us on our way south to meet up with the amazing Jo Swanell (a windsurfing friend of mine from my time in Egypt) in time in Guadalupe.